Val Vegia, Valle scura

Another unpublished trail in the Bergamo area, which uses the Laghi Gemelli region as a transit point to head off on a long descent through the Val Vegia, ending with a decidedly technical section toward Cagnoli. It can be seen as a much more technical and adventurous alternative to the classic Laghi Gemelli loop. The first part passes through some of the area’s best-known landscapes, while later on the route changes character completely and veers onto trails that are much less frequented by mountain bikers. The ride is long and comprehensive: an ascent on paved road, a significant portage section, an initial S4 descent from the Mezzeno Pass, the passage through the Laghi Gemelli, and finally the long descent to the valley floor, where you can choose just how challenging you want to make it.

Ascent from Roncobello to the Mezzeno Huts

The route starts at the junction for Roncobello and immediately begins to climb on paved road. The climb is long and challenging, but without particularly steep gradients: by maintaining your own pace, you can pedal fairly steadily. Once past Roncobello, the surroundings become progressively more beautiful and peaceful, and traffic is generally very limited. Continue on the road that climbs toward the Baite di Mezzeno, located at an elevation of about 1,600 m. At the Baite di Mezzeno, the easy part of the ride essentially ends, and the way you gain elevation changes completely.

Baite di Mezzeno – Passo di Mezzeno

From the Baite, take the trail that climbs to the Mezzeno Pass (2,144 m). This section has an elevation gain of about 540–550 meters. The trail isn’t particularly suited for continuous riding on a mountain bike: some sections can be tackled while riding or by pushing, but you should expect plenty of carrying, with several spots where the most practical solution is simply to hoist the bike onto your shoulders. You’ll initially pass through woods and pastures before gradually entering open terrain. In the final stretch, the trail climbs steeply again up to the pass. Once you reach the Mezzeno Pass, your efforts are rewarded by the view: from here, the vista opens up completely onto the Laghi Gemelli area and the surrounding mountains.

Descent from the Mezzeno Pass S4

From the pass, a first descent of considerable interest begins immediately. The trail toward the Laghi Gemelli is a full-fledged S4—technical and continuous—yet at the same time very enjoyable to ride for those with the necessary skill level. It is therefore not merely a transfer to the refuge: it is already one of the route’s standout descents. For a technical rider, it’s probably one of the most fun sections of the ride, set in a particularly scenic alpine setting. The descent leads to the shores of the Laghi Gemelli and then to the Laghi Gemelli Mountain Hut (1,968 m).

Laghi Gemelli Mountain Hut – Lago Colombo – Pian delle Casere

From the refuge, continue toward Lago Colombo, joining the classic “Lakes Route.” This section has a completely different character than the previous one: the terrain remains alpine, but the technical challenges are significantly lower. From Lago Colombo, follow the classic descent toward Lago Pian delle Casere. The difficulty is roughly S2, with some sections reaching S3. This makes for a much smoother section, allowing you to recover a bit after the technical descent from Passo di Mezzeno. Once you reach Lago Pian delle Casere, you cross the dam area and gradually leave the classic Laghi Gemelli route behind. From here, you must in fact begin climbing again to reach the upper part of Val Vegia.

Ascent toward Val Vegia

From Pian delle Casere, a new ascent begins toward the Passo di Val Vegia / Passo del Tonale area. This section is decidedly wilder than the well-traveled trails around the Laghi Gemelli and leads into the least-traveled part of the route. Once you reach the pass area, the long descent into Val Vegia finally begins.

Alternative Route to Shorten the Hike

For those who wish to significantly reduce the distance and elevation gain, there is also a possible alternative route. From Passo di Mezzeno, maps indicate that it is possible to continue directly toward the Passo del Tonale area and then connect to the upper part of Val Vegia. This would allow you to avoid the entire section through Rifugio Laghi Gemelli, Lago Colombo, and Pian delle Casere, as well as the subsequent ascent. However, this is not the route followed by the trail described here and should be considered an alternative route to be carefully assessed before attempting it, especially since you’ll be traveling through alpine terrain where the trail isn’t always clearly marked.

Start of the descent into Val Vegia S4/S5

The first part of the descent is also one of the most challenging. Over the first approximately 150 meters of descent, the trail alternates between S4 and S5 sections. The terrain is decidedly technical and requires excellent riding skills. Once this initial section is passed, the difficulty decreases significantly. The descent continues through Val Vegia, passing through an increasingly isolated and wild landscape. Along this section, you’ll also come across the mountain huts located in the valley. From here down to an elevation of about 1,400 m, the trail no longer presents the extreme difficulties of the upper section and consists mainly of alternating S2 and S3 sections. It is a long stretch that is decidedly more controlled and smooth, while still retaining the character of a mountain trail.

Elevation 1,400 m: First Choice

At around 1,400 meters, an important decision arises. Those who are satisfied with the technical section already completed can choose the easier option: continue northward and connect with CAI Trail 212, which descends from Lago Pian delle Casere toward Branzi. Trail 212 serves as the hiking link between Branzi and the Laghi Gemelli area. This is the recommended option for those who wish to complete the loop without adding any significant additional difficulty. Those who wish to follow the entire route, however, continue toward the more technical section of Val Vegia.

From 1,400 to approximately 1,150 m S4

Continuing along the original route, the technical difficulty immediately increases again. From about 1,400 to 1,150 meters, you’ll tackle a full S4 section, this time mainly through the woods. There are also some sections with significant exposure, but most of the trail remains rideable for those with the necessary skills. This section requires precision, bike control, and above all, the ability to assess when it’s better to dismount rather than force a passage. You’ll finally reach the Strada Piana area.

Strada Piana: Second Exit Option

Here, too, you can decide whether to continue along the most extreme part of the trail or take the easier route back. For those continuing on the full route, however, the most technically challenging section of the entire loop still lies ahead.

Final descent S5

From an elevation of 1,150 m down to about 850 m, there is a vertical drop of approximately 300 meters—but these are likely the most challenging 300 meters of the day. The trail is, in fact, almost entirely rated S5, with very technical sections and some decidedly exposed stretches. Here, it’s no longer simply a matter of tackling a few isolated obstacles: the difficulty level remains high for most of the descent. This section is intended for riders with excellent technique who are accustomed to riding on steep, difficult, and exposed trails. Of course, there’s no obligation to tackle the entire section on your bike: at several points, the smartest choice may be to dismount and walk through the section. This final section is therefore almost a ride within a ride: those who tackle it complete the most difficult version of the route, while those who prefer to avoid it can use the previous alternatives to return via easier trails.

Cagnoli and Return

Once the technical section is over, you finally reach the village of Cagnoli, marking the definitive end of the off-road portion. From here, there are no further particular difficulties: you join the regular road network of the Brembana Valley and return by road to the starting point.

In summary

A very comprehensive and, above all, extremely adaptable alpine all-mountain ride. The climb to the Baite di Mezzeno is long but steady; this is followed by approximately 540–550 meters of elevation gain to the Mezzeno Pass, during which you’ll need to carry your bike for quite a while. From the pass, there’s an immediate, beautiful S4 descent toward the Laghi Gemelli. The section passing by the Laghi Gemelli Mountain Hut, Lago Colombo, and Pian delle Casere offers a more classic and smooth stretch before entering the most distinctive part of the route: the Val Vegia. An interesting feature of this ride is that you can choose the difficulty level even during the descent. The upper section immediately features about 150 meters of very technical terrain, rated S4/S5. Afterward, the terrain becomes easier, mostly S2/S3, up to an elevation of about 1,400. From there, you can exit onto Trail 212 or continue by tackling a long S4 section, with some exposed stretches. Once you reach Strada Piana, you again have the option to take the easier route back or tackle the final 300 meters, which represent the truly extreme conclusion of the route: nearly continuous S5 difficulty and some exposed sections. It is therefore an excellent alternative to the classic Laghi Gemelli loop for those seeking something much more technical, less predictable, and featuring a true all-mountain descent all the way down to the valley floor.

Technical Details

• Trail Style: All-Mountain / Technical / Alpine
• MTB: Yes, good technique required
• E-MTB: Possible, but challenging on the portage sections
• Portage: Approximately 1,000–1,200 m elevation gain
• Ascent difficulty: Manageable
• Descent difficulty: Overall S3/S4, with long S4 sections and some S5 sections
• Exposure: Present mainly in the lower, more technical sections
• Trail conditions: Preferably dry
• Water: Mezzeno mountain huts and Laghi Gemelli Refuge

Difficulty note: If you follow the route exactly, the final 300 meters or so of elevation gain before Cagnoli are significantly more challenging than the rest of the route, featuring continuous S5 sections and exposure. Those who do not wish to tackle this section can use the alternative exit routes indicated in the description.