Capanna Quarnei

A really great ride I planned based on this itinerary. After looking at the maps, I decided to extend it—since I’d gotten an e-bike in the meantime—by skipping the cable car and starting from the valley floor instead. Start from the village square (with convenient free parking and a much-appreciated fountain upon return) and head up the road, which, with gentle gradients, leads first to the Val Malvaglia reservoir dam and then pleasantly through the various villages of the valley. After Dandrio, you switch sides, passing through the hamlet of Anzano and finally Cusiè. From here, I chose to follow the beautiful trail that descends slightly toward the river, passing through Alpe di Bolla to reach Alpe di Pozzo along the Orino River. It’s very beautiful, but in hindsight, I recommend taking the easier road instead, as this section is quite strenuous and difficult to ride even on an e-bike—especially since we’ll be retracing part of this route in reverse later. From Alpe di Pozzo, you first climb to Alpe di Quarnei, situated in a beautiful alpine amphitheater, and then quickly reach the stunning Capanna Quarnei mountain hut. From here, an absolutely epic descent begins!

You pass a cluster of huts on a grassy ledge (Ürbel) and literally plunge into the river below. Looking at it on the map, I had my doubts about whether this section was rideable, but aside from a few switchbacks too tight for my right-side nose-press skills, it’s all done in the saddle (I’d say difficulty S3 with a few S4 sections). Once at the river, follow the trail mentioned above to return to the dirt road of the official MTB trail 389 (red signs), with a short climb of about 100 meters in elevation gain or slightly more.

This cuts across the entire valley along a scenic and beautiful route with a few places to eat and drink, always easy and fast except for a few slightly more technical sections. You’ll eventually come to a small road that you’ll cross several times, following the White-Red-White trail markers all the way to the cable car station in Degro.

From here on out—helmet on, belts fastened, and lights on even during the day—the “Technical-Grumpy” festival begins. The trail is a succession of truly arduous sections that offer no respite; we had to stop several times to catch our breath. It’s physically demanding but highly rewarding. You’ll practically arrive in the trunk of your car—count your bruises and check carefully to make sure all your joints are in place.